So you have finished your excellent breakfast at Café de Flore and are itching to begin your stylish morning stroll (if you haven’t read my introductory posts on Paris, you can find them here and here). The fifteen minute amble between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the majestic department store Le Bon Marché (aka My Address in Heaven) is one of my favourite walks in the world and a brilliant way to soak up the culture and chicness of this stunning city.
The spirit of the flâneur or “saunterer” is alive and well in Paris, meaning you can abandon Google Maps and commit instead to strolling the streets with gentle curiosity. As you sail past designer boutiques and harmonious Haussmann-era buildings, following your nose and taking your time, it is impossible not to be swept up by feelings of benevolence and good will towards the world. Can you feel it? Paris is sinking beneath your skin. Your only task is to absorb each wonderful moment.
From Café de Flore, turn right onto the bustling thoroughfare of Boulevard Saint-Germain and continue towards Rue du Dragon. This charming little street is full of interesting boutiques (the Burberry store on the corner warrants a special mention) and is perfect for strolling with your eyes peeled and mouth slightly ajar (even the air in Paris is enchanting if you ask me). You couldn’t possibly be hungry after that filling omelette, otherwise I’d recommend you stop for a plate of antipasti at L’Altro—an intimate Italian joint with a cool vibe and tasty food. Instead I suggest you head for the Tod’s store—a label I’ve recently become obsessed with thanks to their exceptional brogues and trainers. From here take a right onto Rue de Grenelle—the epicentre of Designer Heaven—and wander up towards the Boulevard Raspail. At the very least you’ll want to pop into Celine and Ines de la Fressange (I’d save Christian Louboutin for the fabulous new boutique in Le Bon Marché – here’s a sneak peek below).
Feeling a tad peckish? I don’t believe you! Although in fairness it would be a crime not to stop at Barthelemy—one of the city’s most respected fromageries—for a wedge or three of perfectly ripened cheese. The women who work here are notoriously bad tempered (at least towards English-speaking tourists) and will screw up their faces in physical pain when you attempt to pronounce ‘truffle camembert’—camembert à la truffe—in French. This is one of those stores in the capital where it’s best to abandon your fledgling attempts to speak the language in favour of pointing decisively at a few oozing hunks.
If entering the elegant environs of Le Bon Marché reeking of mouldy socks doesn’t appeal to you, I recommend stopping first at the lovely Square Boucicaut in front of it for an impromptu picnic. Settled on a park bench amid the dappled greenery, listening to the delighted squeals coming from the nearby merry-go-round and gazing up at the façade of the world’s first department store (founded in 1838, in case you were wondering), a smile will commandeer your face that is difficult to wipe off.
And you needn’t bother, because it’s time to waltz through the hallowed entrance of Le Bon Marché itself. Even the history of the place is enchanting. The precursor to contemporary department stores everywhere (think about that for a moment) and a dedicated pleasure palace described by nineteenth-century novelist Emile Zola as “the cathedral of modern commerce”, today the store occupies an impressive 50,000 square metres across two splendid buildings. My favourite entrance is the one on the corner of Rue du Bac and Rue de Babylone (a sentimental choice, admittedly, as that’s the street where K & I lived for a month on our honeymoon). Sail in past the (relatively) cheerful security guard—he will hand out nifty plastic tubes for your umbrella if it’s raining—to the accessories department. Encircling the makeup counters in an enticing ring, this is the place to shop for that limited edition Anya Hindmarch bag, diamond-encrusted Rolex or tiny jewelled earring whose price could cover your house deposit. I like to waft around unencumbered (there is a civilised coat check in the basement), absorbing the inspired creations of cult jewellers like Delfina Delettrez.
The makeup counters beckon—two symmetrical pearls on either side of the escalators illuminated from floors above by striking bell-shaped lights. Head directly for Robert Piguet to stock up on your new signature perfume, Fracas—a seductive scent that is heady with tuberose without being overly sweet. So doused (and I mean doused—French women apply perfume with liberal abandon), it’s time for the main event: the designer women’s fashion floor on Level One.
And there it is: the most enthralling display of designer fashion you have ever seen. After a split second of unease (where on earth are you supposed to head first?) you decide it doesn’t matter and sail off gaily into the centre of the floor. Kenzo, Chloe, Lanvin, Alaïa, Stella McCartney, Givenchy, Balmain, Balenciaga… You have died and gone to fashion heaven. I’d allow a good two hours for what happens next. If you’re accompanied by an unwilling shopping partner such as a husband (and I speak here from personal experience), ditch them pronto. The only thing you want weighing you down in that change room are the piles of leather leggings and chiffon blouses themselves.
I was going to write about the magnificent foodhall, La Grande Epicerie, in the building opposite—the sparkling fish and feathered geese, the gazillion varieties of mustard, the colourful fruit arranged in patterns like so many fragrant jewels. But I will save that for another post. For now, my friends, I leave you ensconced in layers of ethereal tulle, searching blithely for the price tag that has slipped onto the change room floor. As if your mind wasn’t already made up. 🙂
xo
PHOTOGRAPHY – Korian Strakosch
Featured image via – EPR Retail News
Lovely blog – thanks for sharing! I felt this way too when I went to the Galerie Lafayette in Paris – such a fun department store – taking the escalator to the rooftop was inspiring!
Hi Anne! Thank you so much for your lovely comment. Galerie Lafayette is stunning, isn’t it? It’s hard to top that glorious domed glass roof, and my hubby and I always make sure to stock up on Pierre Herme’s delicious macaroons from the store tucked away in the shoe section. I’ll be posting the remainder of my perfect Parisian day in the coming weeks – please let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to know about! Thanks again for reading. Antonia 🙂
Thank you for the great advice. I’m in Paris this week. Will have to get a bottle of Fracas!
Hi Nancy, I’m so glad you found it useful! So jealous you’re in Paris this week – my hubby and I would honestly move there if we could. You won’t regret splurging on a bottle of Fracas – I’d advise getting a large one! 🙂 Hope you have a wonderful trip and thanks so much for reading. xo
Your photos are making me impatient about my Paris visit. This is next month, and I’m very excited. I’ve already plan my shopping from Ines de La Fressange store.